Mild winter, what does it mean for overseeding of turf or dormant seeding?

Typically, turf management isn’t on top of the to-do list in mid-February. But winter in New Jersey isn’t typical typical this year. The statewide average temperature in January 2023 was 41.0°, which was 9.3° above the 1991–2020 normal and ties with 1932 as the mildest January since records commenced in 1895. For more details on a winter weather recap see the Rutger NJ Weather Network at https://www.njweather.org/

Some may be asking, what does this mean for the overseeding I did last fall to renovate my turf? The answer depends, in part, on what seed mix or blend was used and when was it seeded. The minimum temperatures for seed germination are poorly defined because of the extreme slowness of germination at low temperatures. But observations of late-fall seedings clearly indicate that tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass seed does not effectively develop a seedling turf once soil temperatures drop to 50° F. Late-fall seedings with fine fescue will also be slow but greater seedling development may be seen with the red fescues (strong creeping red and Chewings). Among the cool season grasses used for turf, perennial ryegrass has the greatest chance for development of turf cover from a late-fall seeding since the species has been observed to germinate at temperatures below 40° F but above freezing.

Because of the mild winter weather, it would be useful to scout any areas of turf that were overseeded last fall to identify and document the extent of seedling emergence and development. This will serve as a benchmark for future assessments and indicators of progress for turf renovation during the approaching spring.

Small seedling plants emerged during winter in a damage lawn.

Although difficult to see, the small seedling plants in this image during February indicate germination and emergence of a late-fall overseeding of Chewings fescue on a lawn that suffered damage from summer stress.

Mild weather may be encouraging some to consider dormant seeding, which is the process of applying seed with the knowledge that it will not germinate (remains dormant) until environmental conditions are favorable for germination later in the spring. For cool-season grasses, that generally means seed will not germinate until soil temperatures are consistently above 50° F. And it is important to understand that air temperature will probably need to be 60° F or above before soil temperatures will be consistently above 50° F. Soil temperature at the 2-inch depth is currently averaging above 40° F at the turfgrass research farm in North Brunswick, NJ.

Dormant seedings have greater risks associated with higher seedling mortality and loss from wash-outs, bird feeding, etc. Mortality can occur if the seed germinates and then a hard frost occurs and kills the seedlings. Losses due to wash-out and bird feeding are greater because proper soil preparation during the winter is limited by excessive soil moisture or frozen conditions dictating that dormant seeding are reliant on frost-action to incorporate seed into the soil. As a result, seed rates for dormant seeding are often increased by 30 to 50 percent as an attempt to offset these possible losses.

When attempting dormant seeding, consider using walk-behind spreaders and other equipment that won’t cause soil damage and compaction. If the soil is dry and firm enough, heavier equipment may be used but dry, firm conditions are often not the case, especially when the soil has frost heaved or rains have saturated the soil. Also, do not add a fertilizer product during winter dormant seeding operations in accordance with sound environmental stewardship. Fertilizers should never be applied to snow-covered or frozen soils as there is a high risk of fertilizer runoff.

If rapid ground cover is a primary goal for dormant seeding, perennial ryegrass will provide the fastest rate of establishment. Also, covering a dormant seeding with a growth blanket will be a great aid to germination and establishment. Growth blankets protect the seed from wash-outs, wind blowing, and bird feeding and retain moisture and heat, thereby accelerating the establishment rate and extending the growing season. Growth blankets also discourage people from trafficking and disturbing the area.

In summary, dormant seedings are much riskier than seeding at more ideal times. This doesn’t mean dormant seeding aren’t or shouldn’t be done, but it does mean expectations need to be tempered based on the associated risks. And it would be wise to have alternate plan ready should the dormant seeding not achieve the expected outcome.

Tropical Storm Brings Rain But What About Gray Leaf Spot?

The passing of tropical storm, Fay brought some needed precipitation to the region, albeit too much at once in many places. Relatively dry soils (assumes not being over-irrigated) and the long, warm days of summer should allow turfs to dry out reasonably fast.

But what about gray leaf spot? Spores of the pathogen are thought to be blown up from southern regions to the north on the winds of tropical systems. With the recent passing of Fay, Dr. Bruce Clarke recommends being on the watch for early symptoms and signs of gray leaf spot outbreaks. Gray leaf spot can be severe on older, non-tolerant cultivars of perennial ryegrass while new, improved cultivars will be much less sensitive although not immune. Over the last couple years, we have also experienced some strong outbreaks of gray leaf spot on tall fescue across the region. So don’t ignore the tall fescue turfs if you have some.

For more information, see the fact sheet, Integrated Control of Gray Leaf Spot on Perennial Ryegrass.

Gray leaf spot control with fungicides on perennial ryegrass.

Fungicide plots on a perennial ryegrass cultivar that is highly susceptible to gray leaf spot.

Green-up Started

Soil temperatures have been warming and reached the mid-40s °F last week at Rutgers Hort Farm No. 2 in North Brunswick NJ and are creeping into the upper-40s °F early this week. Dr. Clarke recommends that treatment of turf with a history of take-all patch be initiated when soil temperature averages 40 to 60 °F. Treatment of fairy ring should be initiated when average temperature is in the range of 50 to 55 °F. Waiting to treat beyond these soil temperature thresholds will increase the risk that control strategies are not as effective.

Table 1. Soil Temperature Data under Bentgrass Turf Mowed at 0.375-inch in North Brunswick, NJ on 17 March 2020 at 2:00 PM.

3-inch Depth Thatch-Soil Interface
Current 48 °F 50 °F
24-hour Average 45 °F 44 °F
5-day Average 47 °F 47 °F

 

Additionally, the Forsythia bloom started last week in central New Jersey, which Dr. Matthew Elmore recommends as a traditional phenological indicator for preemergence herbicide programs on turf.

Initial forsythia bloom in a home lawn in central NJ last week.

 

Summer Aeration/Cultivation/Venting

Aeration during the summer can be a helpful practice but does need some caution. Many turf managers performing mid-season aeration on putting greens will be using needle tines, which are less disruptive. But the key words are [Read more…]

Glyphosate Alternatives

Recent news about glyphosate has many thinking about alternatives.

Joe Neal (Professor of Weed Science, Extension Specialist & Department Extension Leader Horticultural Science) and Andrew Senesac (Extension Weed Scientist Cornell Cooperative Extension, Suffolk Co., NY) have published a thorough summary of alternatives and the associated pros and cons through NC State Extension at https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/are-there-alternatives-to-glyphosate-for-weed-control-in-landscapes

Green-up Transitioning to Growth: Ready to Mow?

Three weeks ago, many turfgrasses began greening up as surface soil temperatures warmed into the 50s °F during the day. Currently, surface soil temperatures are reaching into the 60s °F during the day, which stimulates vertical leaf growth especially after a rain. Any early spring N fertilization will also encourage vertical leaf growth.

Accordingly, mowing equipment should be reconditioned and ready for routine use. Setup of mowing height should not be overlooked; an incorrect mowing height will lead to problems. Generally, lawn grasses will be easier to maintained at a mowing height of 3-inches or higher.

Grasses will be healthier when there are more leaves (leaf area) to capture sunlight for photosynthesis and shade the soil surface. More photosynthesis helps the grass grow more roots and a shaded soil surface remains cooler. Shade also blocks the exposure of weed seed to light, which is an environmental trigger for weed germination.

Uneven ground is another reason to recommend relatively high mowing. Many lawns are relatively uneven. A lack of smoothness in a lawn contributes to poor mowing.  A mower set 3-inches helps protect high spots in a lawn from being severely scalped. For example, a high spot in a lawn that ends up being cut at 2-inches with a mower set at 3-inches would be cut at 1-inch if the mower were set at 2-inches.

Mower scalp caused by mower deck being set too low on a lawn with uneven ground.

 

Soil Health

Soil that has been severely compacted often breaks into large massive plates.

For those interested in soil health – we all should be – the Soil Health Institute has release a 60-minute documentary featuring innovative farmers and soil health experts from throughout the U.S.

You can view the film at https://livingsoilfilm.com/

 

Dog Days and Cool-Season Grass

 

Cool-season lawn struggling to grow in shallow soil on a south-facing slope during dog days.

According to Merriam-Webster, dog days is the period between early July and early September when the hot sultry weather of summer usually occurs in the northern hemisphere; a period of stagnation or inactivity.

The dog is actually the Dog Star – also called Sirius – which rises simultaneously with the sun during the hottest days of summer in the northern hemisphere. Plutarch (Greek writer, 46-120 AD) referred to the hot days of summer as hēmerai kynades (literally, “dog days”); the Latin translation dies caniculares is the source of our English phrase. But I digress…

You most likely have noticed that cool-season grasses have recently entered a period of stagnation or inactivity (dog days) and, in some cases, are spent. The hot summer days have steadily increased soil temperatures to the point that the soil is now warmer than air temperature for much of the daylight hours and all of the night. During the last 10 days at Hort Farm No. 2, soil temperature at 3-inches has oscillated between 76 and 90 °F and at 2-inches 78 and 92 °F. These soil temperatures are well above the optimum temperatures for root growth and clearly explain why cool-season grasses are lethargic at this time.

What to do? Be patient and do not “push” the grass. This is not the time of year to stress out turf – the grass has very little resiliency and will not tolerate much abuse or recovery quickly. I recently witnessed utility vehicle traffic on subtly drought stressed turf during the hottest part of the day result in classic tire-track damage. Root systems of cool-season grasses are weakest and shallowest at this time of year. Thus, localized drought stress can develop rapidly – within a couple hot, sunny days – during the dog days.

These cultural practices can be helpful in getting high value turf to survive dog days. Once the turf has drained after drenching thunderstorms (2-3 days), program daily, very-light (50-65% of reference ET), deficit irrigation using a rainhold setting (such as 0.2-inch rain) to stop irrigation from adding to over-wetting from storms. Deficit irrigation assures that thunderstorms will be the reason for excess wetness, not the irrigation schedule. This irrigation plan should encourage the turf the dry without over-drying between irrigations (or thunderstorms). If excess drying does occur with this irrigation plan, it probably will start in highly localized (small) areas, which can be effectively managed with well-timed syringing to re-hydrate dry leaves and prevent crispy thatch during the heat of the day. Crispy thatch means that surface adventitious roots either are or will soon be crispy as well. Moist to dry thatch is good, whereas crispy and crunchy thatch in the heat is bad. Weekly, low-rate fertilization (N and possibly P, K and micronutrients) is crucial on sand-topdressed and sand-based rootzones commonly found on golf course putting greens and some sports turfs. These rootzones have very little mineralization capacity to supply essential nutrients during dog days. Weekly low-rate fertilization provides a steady, consistent slow-growth and avoids the “surge-crash” cycle of growth that results from less-frequent and higher application rates. Typically, low-rate N is no more than a 0.1-lbs. per 1,000-sq. ft.

Summer Patch on Hard Fescue

Hot weather in early July brought on some severe summer patch (root disease) symptoms in hard fescue. This disease on fine fescues hasn’t been as thoroughly studied as it has been on other grasses.  So recommendations are based on knowledge learned in Kentucky bluegrass (Poa pratensis) and annual bluegrass (Poa annua) turfs. We are establishing plots this summer and fall to learn more about this disease on hard fescue.

Symptoms of summer patch disease on a 4-year-old hard fescue turf in New Brunswick NJ.

Fine fescues are better adapted to dry and infertile soils. Summer performance of fine fescue will generally be better in moderate to light shade than full sun.

To limit damage from summer patch on fine fescues, do not apply more than 2 lbs. of N per 1,000 sq. ft. per year. An acidifying form of N such as ammonium sulfate is thought to be the best choice when fertilizing fine fescues affected by summer patch. Caution is needed when irrigation fine fescue turf, especially on heavy (loamy) soils. Summer patch disease tends to be more severe on soil that retains water. Irrigation should be applied in a manner that moistens the soil after some time of drying but does not keep the soil excessively wet for many days. Mow fine fescue turf no lower than 2.5 to 3 inches and stop mowing when the turf shows symptoms of heat and drought stress in the summer. Fine fescue turf grows more slowly than other cool-season turfgrasses especially when air temperatures approach and exceed 90 °F.

See Dr. Bruce Clarke’s PowerPoint slides for more details on summer patch disease.

 

Managing Thatch

Recently received a couple of questions about managing thatch.

One question was concerning the recent trend in the industry to not core putting greens and only use solid tines. 

Non-coring programs rely on topdressing to dilute the organic matter (thatch) that accumulates, thus forming a mat layer as opposed to a thatch layer. Turgeon defines mat as a tightly intermingled layer composed of [Read more…]